Western Australian Exploration

Dromedary Hills, Youanmi - Murders on the Rabbit Proof Fence

Background The Western Australian Exploration Diaries Project (WAEDP) offers Members access, on a user pays basis, to field trips and expeditions related to exploration journals of Western Australia. Trips vary from local day trips to longer expeditions to remote areas of the state. The trip to the Rabbit Proof Fence (RPF) and Youanmi area was put together by Jeff Murray to provide Members with the opportunity to follow up on the Snowy Rowles’ murders on the RPF and to visit Youanmi Downs and Youangarra abandoned pastoral stations, once owned by the family of WAEDP Member Rob O’Connor. Trip Participants Jeff Murray (Trip Leader) and Clinton Macaulay Phil Bianchi (Trip Report) and Rob O’Connor Gail and John Dreezens (Tail End Charlie) Day 1 Friday 26 October 2007 Perth to south of Paynes Find Rain was falling when we left Midland at 5.30 p.m. and continued all the way until we stopped at 10.00 p.m. to camp 70 kilometres north of Wubin. The journey was uneventful although driving in the rain and at night was very difficult. Jeff and Clinton led the way to the bush campsite. It was a struggle to get a fire going but eventually we were successful and got a little heat into our bones before retiring. Total kilometres travelled 330. Day 2 Saturday 27 October 2007 South of Paynes Find to RPF Awoke to clear skies; thankfully it had stopped raining. We were soon at Paynes Find and met up with Gail and John Dreezens, other WAEDP Members. After chatting we hit the Paynes Find-Sandstone Road (PFSR), heading for Camel Farm. The road was in excellent condition and we made good time. Our first stop was Dromedary Bore where we saw two bungarras sunning themselves - the first of many seen on the weekend.
The 'Concierge' at Dromedary Well	Ruins of the Camel Farm main building
We had morning tea at Camel Farm, the site of ruined stone buildings and a windmill. Camel Farm was the breeding station where the Rabbit Department bred camels for use on the RPF. It was one of three administrative points along the RPF, the others being at Burracoppin and Jigalong. A few hundred metres west of the buildings we located the original well used at the farm.
Another view of the Camel Farm ruin Gateway through the RPF at Camel Farm	It was an enjoyable stop and all of us took many photos and scouted around what is a rapidly deteriorating building. Leaving Camel Farm we followed tracks north over the PFSR, enjoying a number of stops among some scenic breakaway country. Abandoned windmill at Camel Farm
Next stop was Lemons Camp, also known as Fountain Outcamp. Victims Lloyd and Ryan were last seen at this site. They were killed by Rowles and their bodies burnt. The book Murder on the Rabbit Proof Fence has a photograph of a building at Lemons Camp but sadly nothing remains except for a few poles, some roofing tin, and part of a porcelain toilet pan. After lunch we travelled back to PFSR, went east and then north up a fence line to Snowys Well and the site of the Haunted Hut. Rowles murdered Carron at the hut. Little remains at this site other than yards, a wrecked mill, tins and bottles, and a collapsed hut that had been made of poles.	Remains of Lemons Camp at Fountain Outcamp
Clinton, Rob and Jeff at remains of Haunted House	The original Snowys Well is 80 metres NE of the present well and the Haunted Hut is 150 metres SSW of the present Snowys Well. Heading south we stopped off at the site of the now derelict O’Conner Well, another disused mill. Despite the variation in spelling we presume it’s named after Rob O’Connor’s grandfather who settled Youanmi Station in 1917. It was time to camp and we found an excellent spot in a grove of mulga. It had been an enjoyable day, with much to discover and see. We then had an enjoyable evening around the campfire sharing reminiscences, jokes and generally enjoying the bush. Total kilometres travelled 277
Day 3 Sunday 28 October 2007 RPF / Youanmi to Perth With eager anticipation we were away at 7.30 a.m. or 8.30 a.m. daylight saving time. First stop was Youanmi Cemetery, where we found Rob’s grandfather’s grave site. It was in excellent condition with all letters on the tombstone still clear and legible. Our convoy travelled through the old Youanmi townsite and meandered around here and there through the bush seeking out the breakaway that overlooks the cemetery. The breakaway provided excellent views and for almost 360°. The lads climbed up and around the breakaways, taking lots of photos.	Gail, John, Clinton and Jeff around the breakfast fire
Rob O'Connor at his grandfather's grave	Kurrajongs at Youanmi
It was too windy to have morning tea at the breakaway so we returned to the old townsite and prepared it near the mining company village. Gail produced her wonderful Bundy Rum-laced fruit cake. A line of Kurrajong trees in what was the main street of Youanmi caught our attention. Upon closer inspection we also found sections of the original bitumen road, some footings and lots of broken glass and rusting tin. Nearby two drilling teams were flat out drilling for gold ore. Closer inspection of the country revealed lots of survey pegs throughout the area. If travelling in the area take great care, because of mining traffic.
Youanmi Youanmi is an abandoned goldfields townsite located 570 kilometres north east of Perth and 90 kilometres south west of Sandstone. Gold was discovered in the area in 1896 but wasn't rich enough to develop. The area was rediscovered in 1908, and by 1910 there were sufficient miners in the area for the Youanme Progress Committee to request a townsite be declared. Following the survey of lots the townsite was gazetted in August 1910, but was spelt Yuani. It was soon realised that the gazetted spelling would lead to the name being mispronounced, and in December 1910 it was changed to the current spelling, Youanmi. The name was first recorded for a spring in the area by a surveyor in 1887, the name having been given to the surveyor by an old Aboriginal accompanying him. The meaning of the name is uncertain, unknown sources suggest it relates to a type of mulga tree located around the spring or the bob tailed goanna, the Aboriginal name of which is ‘Youan’ or ‘Uan’.	View from the breakaways at Youanmi
Old Metters stove at relics yard Youanmi Homestead	Heading north we stopped off at the town well. The original timber-lined well and a nearby windmill both had water in them. Our next goal was to go to the abandoned Youanmi Homestead. Rob was especially disappointed when we arrived at the site of the abandoned Youanmi Station; the buildings had been bulldozed and buried to prevent squatters living in them. All that remained were some cacti, sheep yards and the relic’s yard; here all manner of rusting metal, old windmills, machinery and the obligatory VW Beetle amongst other vehicle wrecks were located. An interesting hour was spent wandering amongst the relics.
To the west of the homestead site is Brewery Well, the origin of which is unknown. Typically any well near a homestead is called Homestead Well, so it is presumed the well was located here before the homestead was constructed. With a little time up our sleeve before we needed to head back to Perth we decided to visit Youangarra Homestead - also abandoned. Youangarra was located off the Youanmi-Lake Barlee Road. Rob’s grandfather had a station at Bullingarra near Mt Magnet. When he took over Youanmi he also took over the station to the south and named it Youangarra, a corruption of both names. The main track to Youangarra was rough, stony and washed out; it seemed to take for ever to get there.
Youangarra Homestead	Youangarra Shearing Shed
Rob’s memories of visiting Youangarra came flooding back to him. It was fantastic to see him rushing about taking copious photographs and reminiscing. All buildings were still in place, although derelict. The verandah and many walls of the homestead had been stripped of metal and or timber. Structures still standing included the homestead, shearing shed and yards. Near the homestead was a wrecked truck with the name Bairds painted on the side. It would need a ‘little work’ to get it going, but an interesting find none the less.
Woolclassing tag at Youangarra	Woolclassing area at the Youangarra Shearing Shed
Horse yards at Youangarra	Time had run out and we headed back to the Youanmi-Lake Barlee Road, this time via a fence line track that was in excellent condition. We said our goodbyes to John and Gail; they weren’t in a hurry to get back to Perth and headed south to Diemels Station and Southern Cross. Our journey to Perth was uneventful. We left Youanmi at 3.30 p.m., had some tea at Wubin and arrived in Midland at 11.00 p.m. Total kilometres travelled 702. It was a wonderful trip, especially travelling with a group of like-minded people. Many thanks to Jeff on behalf of all participants for putting together such an interesting and fact filled adventure. Phil Bianchi


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