Once we had packed up, our first stop was Burra Rock and its dam. Burra Rock was used by Hunt as a depot although he did not build a well or dam in the area.

When approaching the parking area we could see an assortment of old rusting farm machinery. Phil’s research on woodlines had provided him with much information about the location. The machinery was left by Benny Rampellini in the 1960s when he established a piggery and vegetable garden; he also had some 500 sheep. The sheep perished due to a lack of fencing, poison and dingoes. Rampellini cleared an area with the intention of growing grain. He then decided that grain growing was too difficult and bought from farmers in the Southern Cross area instead. When Rampellini left Burra Rock he abandoned the farm machinery.

Apart from the information on Rampellini, Phil shared his knowledge of the woodlines, explaining the systemic cutting out of each area, and embellishing his talk with sketches in the sand.

This rock had stone walls erected around it to channel water into a dam. It was of similar construction to Karalee, except this was constructed by the WA Goldfields Firewood Supply for company use in transporting firewood by steam train to Kalgoorlie industry. The Firewood Co. built the dam higher up the rock than the Government did at any of its goldfields water harvesting sites. This way a pump was not required because the dam water was at a higher level than the steam train and the water could be gravity fed into the trains’ tanks.

A climb to the top of Burra Rock took us to a cairn. Although steep in places, the climb was well worth the effort for the 360° views and the cooling breeze. We could see another rock to the west that was also used for water harvesting by the Firewood Co. This rock had three dams built around it.

Click here to see more photographs of Burra Rock

When climbing down the rock we followed the dam around to the north before making our way back to the vehicles. At the dam spillway an inscription ‘TV 1929’ was spotted. It was surmised that this was Tom Varley’s initials. He was the manager of the wood line camp at Burra Rock. The water in the dam looked inviting but it was only 9.30am and a little early.

There were many salmon gums and gimlet gums in the area, just some of the 600 varieties of eucalypts in Australia.

Soon we were travelling south to Cave Hill on an excellent road that allowed speeds between 70 – 90 kph. Our first stop was the three dams built by the Firewood Co, again for use by steam trains to cart firewood. All dams had water in them and provided an interesting sight. Around the dam was the remnant of a fence that was used to keep camels and donkeys out. The fence posts were held up by stacking rocks around them.

Cave Hill was another Hunt site. He used this as a depot on many of his trips, because of the abundant natural grasses in the area that could be used for horse feed.

Click here for more photographs of Cave Hill.
 

It was getting hotter and only Joe and Clinton decided to walk to the top of the rock, and then over to the east of the rock to view the fourth dam. They then came back west and climbed down the rock near the cave.

In front of the cave DEC (Department of Environment and Conservation - a merger of the Department of Conservation and Land Management and the Department of Environment) had installed a walkway and viewing platform. Untreated steel was used so it would be deliberately rusty and blend in with the surroundings. All of us then walked up inside the cave and enjoyed the coolness. The height of the cave above rock proper provided some limited views to the west.

The interior of the cave was shady and cool, compared with the perhaps 40^oC heat outside. There was a lot of wind and water erosion within the cave and numerous swallow nests attached to the ceiling.

Clearly, visitors to the cave, including us, ignored the sign stating ‘Danger, Geotechnic surveys have revealed that the cave could collapse’. Many people had written their names or initials on the walls. Most were of the ‘I was here variety’.

Leaving Cave Hill our next destination was Victoria Rock, via a new dirt road that went west. The distance to Victoria Rock from Cave Hill was 80 kilometres over mainly a mixture of sand plain country with belts of gums on higher ground.

Victoria Rock Road

 Victoria Rock Road
 

We arrived at Victoria Rock in time for lunch. Because of the oppressive heat no one wanted to go climbing or exploring, so it was a quick lunch in some shade and then off in the air-conditioned vehicles.

It was a pleasant drive north to Gnarlbine Well, one of Hunt’s most significant wells. During the Coolgardie goldrush, many prospectors headed here to collect water and then went back to Coolgardie for more digging.

At this site there is a plaque commemorating Hunt’s well, another plaque commemorates the exploits of Lefroy and Hunt as well as A. Forrest, G. Withers, G. McPherson, and Bayley and Ford. Yet another plaque nearby at the base of Gnarlbine Rock commemorates the centenary of the Holland Track.

The York to Goldfields Heritage plaque states:

Gnarlbine Rock and Well
Explorer Charles Cook Hunt first camped at this rock on August 16th, 1864, noting that “the water might prove to be useful”.

In 1888 explorer and prospector Gilles McPherson was saved by an Aboriginal boy named Toobey who led him to this well after he was unable to find water.

Click here for more photographs of Gnarlbine

The plaque on the well reads:

"GNARLBINE SOAKS"
Discovered by H.M. LEFROY 1863
Improved by C.C. HUNT 1864
Water at this Soakage was of great assistance
to later Explorers and Prospectors
A.FORREST 1871 G. MacPHERSON '88 '89
G.WITHERS '90 BAYLEY and FORD '92
Afterwards used by thousands living in district
Erected By
Public Subscription and E. Goldfields
Historical Society
Sept 1950

although some of the words were very indistinct.

A third plaque is embedded in the rock about eight metres into the track up the rock and states as follows:

Holland Track Centenary
1893-1993
A tribute to the courage of
JOHN HOLLAND
RUDOLPH KRAKOUER
DAVID KRAKOUUER
JOHN CARMODY

Who left Broome Hill on 14 April 1893
to cut a shorter route to the Gold rush
from the South West of the Colony. They camped at Gnarlbine Rock on 16 June 1893
and reached Coolgardie on 18 June 1893

Funded by Heritage Council of WA

Shortly thereafter we reached Calooli Crossing where, as Phil had explained to us earlier this morning, a tax of two pence per ton was imposed as the Sandalwood on the railway carriage crossed this point. A further tax of two pence per ton was imposed when the carriage carrying the Sandalwood entered Kalgoorlie. Measures were adopted by woodcutters to avoid these taxes, and as a result of this an imposition of three pence per ton was imposed at a later point by the Government.

Back at Coolgardie we refuelled the vehicles and collected some water for washing and drinking. We then stopped at the information centre and the rock shop. While Peter sorted out some Hesperian Press business, the rest of us took the opportunity to check out some local books, history and tourist information. A sign at the Shire of Coolgardie building read:

The Amalgamated Prospectors And Lease Holders Association Of WA (Inc) hereby pay tribute to prospectors
Arthur Bayley and William Ford,
for their discovery of gold at Coolgardie which was registered on the 17th September 1892.

This major discovery led to the opening up of the world renowned “Eastern Goldfields of Western Australia”.

We also commemorate the role that prospectors have played and continue to play in discovering and creating mineral wealth for Australia.

Erected to celebrate the centenary of our association
1904-2004
Representing prospectors since 1904

Our next destination was Yerdanie Rock and Hunt’s well. We were making good time along Great Eastern Highway when a loud bang brought us to a halt. We found that the right rear tyre had delaminated leaving only the carcass on the rim. Most surprisingly the remains of the tyre hadn’t blown. This enabled Phil to drive slowly to some shade to change the tyre. It was a case of many hands make light work and we were soon back on the highway. The tyre change was completed in 19 mins, not F1 standard but given the heat it was well done by all.

Joe jacking up Phil's vehicle to change the wheel

While driving through Bulla Bulling we noticed an unusual looking vehicle at the bowser. We pulled up and found it was a solar vehicle with a bank of batteries recharged by solar panels. The panels were being towed on a trailer, they provided enough power via the batteries for one hour’s driving, Recharging using 240 volt provided four hours of driving. This vehicle was on its way around the world having already done Europe, Africa and across Asia to Sydney. It would then go to South East Asia again, up to Korea across to the Americas then back to Europe. The driver Louis Palmer was on his way to Southern Cross for the night; his support crew was already there. He spoke enthusiastically about the potential of solar power and the resultant reduction in green house gas output. After we drove off much discussion was held over the radio about the merits of such a vehicle and the need for it to use 240 volt power to top up the batteries.

For more photographs of the solar car, click here

Before long we turned off south east towards Yerdanie Rock - a pleasant drive through the Salmon and Gimlet gum forest. A tree had fallen across the track preventing further travel. With all hands to the task it was quickly pushed aside. From the parking area at Yerdanie Rock it was a short walk to the site where Hunts Well was located in a thicket of trees and shrubs. It had been dug out to a depth of about 1.5 metres. We then climbed the rock and enjoyed 360° views. A well built, very old cairn sits atop the rock. A pole protruding from the cairn has the inscription ‘H9’.

For more photographs of Yerdanie Rock and Well, click here

 
It was rapidly approaching camp time, so we returned along the track to a terrific spot that had lots of clearings and nearby firewood. Camp was set up, the pit fire lighted and everyone had a welcome shower. Dinner was barbecued Scotch fillet with potatoes in the coals and an excess of Kim’s Garden Salad, followed by ice cream and fruit. Also devoured was a Sultana Damper that Phil cooked earlier in the evening.

It was again hot today - Kalgoorlie had 39.2°C and Southern Cross 40.6°C.

Total distance travelled – 258 kilometres.